My first night in Reykjavik, I was excited to witness the much-hyped “3 hours of dusk” and was impatient in finding out if it was true. But, before the sun even came close to setting, I needed to find some food.
I knew the main downtown street (at which the World Cup Final was playing at the western-most tip of the street) would offer a variety of choices and was hoping something caught my eye.
Once the soccer match was over, everyone dispersed down the street, but unfortunately, most all the bars and restaurants were already crawling with people. I staggered aimlessly as east as I could do on the street until I found a sign on the street that advertised a soup breadbowl and then stairs leading up the a second floor restaurant. The name of the restaurant was Svarta Kaffid. I was exhausted from the insanely long first day and it was a bit chilly out, so soup in a breadbowl in a tucked away restaurant sounded glorious. I could get away from the crowds and heat up at the same time.
So, up I staggered up the steps and there were a handful of tables left open with candles on all of them. I LOVED the vibe and there was a chalkboard sign that read “No WiFi, SORRY. Talk to each other and smile.” I fell in love with the place right then, as you can see the sign below the counter below.

They only had 2 soups on the entire menu, but I was ok with that. I had the lamb soup with Cod, because almost everything other than lobster has lamb or cod in it in Iceland. I ended up ravaging through the whole thing in record time, along with a coffee so I could try and stay awake to walk around downtown a bit longer. It was incredible and I ate the bowl, naturally, as well. You can see how delicious it looked below. My first real meal in Iceland.

After completing dinner, I figured I needed to explore a little more since the next night was really the only other night I would really get to spend time in Reykjavik after the Game of Thrones tour.
I had always seen this church in the distance and it’s ringing bells at the hour, and I’d read about the amazing architecture in Rick Steve’s book and other tourism books. So, I ventured over to what is named Hallgrimskirkja.
The church dominated the city and you could see it from every side you faced. It was a center point and a telling of geography of where you were in the city. It rose to the clouds like the Ivory Tower in Never Ending Story.
Upon approach, the monster church had a statue on a pedestal out front of Leifur Eiriksson. Leifur is probably the best known hero of Viking age Iceland. Leifur’s voyage to America in the year 1000 preceded Christopher Columbus by half a millennia. It was a gift from the USA to Iceland commemorating the 1000 year anniversary of Albingi, the parliament of Iceland.

This statue has an identical brother statue in Newport, Virginia. Iceland asked permission to copy the statue for the 1939 New York World Fair to display in the Icelandic pavilion. The plaster casts had been saved in the Smithsonian in NY. After the World Fair in NY, it was decided to place it at the entrance of the Mariner’s Museum in Newport, Virginia, where it still stands. Both weigh over 50 tons, including 1 ton for the statue itself and 50 tons for the pedestal.
I ventured inside and there is an alter at the far end and behind you as you walk in, is the massive organ. There is a donation box to help clean the organ pipes.
After taking in the awe of the interior, I jetted out and headed back to the Airbnb. It would be an early bus pickup at 9:30a at City Hall and then the tour would start at 10a.
Once back in the Airbnb, it was definitely a challenge to sleep that night with the single window in my room that offered no blinds or drape. I was correct to buy the sleeping mask, otherwise, I would have had no sleep. The tiny bed was very uncomfortable and I barely fit on it, but for a couple nights, I would make it work. I was in Iceland!
DAY 2
I went to bed with light and woke up with light. One of the strangest, non-hungover, experiences of my life. But, I was ready to get the day going. I’ve been a die-hard fan of Game of Thrones for about 2 years now. I was a little slow in getting started and had to binge watch multiple seasons to catch up. I’m currently reading the books to fill in the gaps until the next season in April 2019.
I got up and went to shower in the bathroom across the hall in the main apartment of the Airbnb. The only problem was, there was no shower, only a tub with an extension arm. This was dire circumstances. Sitting in a tub in a foreign country in a complete stranger’s condo was not appealing in the least. I’m sure many would be horrified, just as I was. But, again, I powered through it and onto the day’s adventure. I kept focusing on the day ahead rather than the mistake of accommodation. Luckily, I just had to get past these two nights as the rest of the nights were in great accommodations.
After leaving the Airbnb, I ventured the 7-minute walk down the street, taking a left and then a right and I was in front of City Hall and the city’s bus stop 1, pictured below. Various tours and the local city buses picked up at this stop, being a very popular spot. Many tourists were heading out to glaciers or caves for the day. There were 2 others that were on my Game of Thrones tour with me that I met up with getting picked up at this spot.

The bus showed up around 9:50a in a smaller shuttle. It was then a 10 minute ride over to the main downtown bus station where we met our guide, Theo, and he took our tickets and we entered a larger Gray Line Bus, the kind we used to travel with on baseball trips in college with TVs.
The tour started promptly at 10a and the guide mentioned you pronounced his name like “Tay-o” rather than “Thee-O” and he was cast as an extra in most all battle scenes of Game of Thrones. Throughout the course of the day, Theo gave detailed insight to the exact scenes we were visiting. He thoroughly enjoyed his job and got excited to share the smallest of details. He had still photos of the scenes we stopped at and even still shots of himself in the scenes.
This bus tour would give me my first true glimpse of the Icelandic countryside and would be 8 hours long. I didn’t know how far we’d go into the mainland, but figured it would at least be a good 3-4 hours inland. They are very discreet on where they take you since they want to secure the tours themselves, and also, most all the locations are off the main tourist maps.

The first stop was in the countryside just outside Reykjavik at a horse farm. They were the stable of many of the horses used in Game of Thrones because Iceland does not allow the import of horses from other countries, even for a TV series filming.

Iceland was used in Game of Thrones filming in every season after season 1. Most all of season 1 was filmed in Ireland for Winterfell and north of the Wall and they had to CGI in all the mountains and the snow. So, they decided to make it easier on themselves in season 2 with mountains and snow already in Iceland. They ended up loving it so much, they shot summer scenes there too and now they have shot more summer than winter scenes in Iceland.

The horses were extremely domesticated and they came up to you right away to be petted. They loved to be touched and acknowledged and were extremely friendly. They are smaller horses, but they are not ponies, as Icelanders take offense to. However, the larger male GOT actors that rode the horses sometimes had their feet touch the ground as they rode them, so they had to shoot at an upwards angle, such as the scenes the involved the Hound. One tidbit as well that Theo told us was that he was in most every battle in GOT, except the scenes with the Hound since the producer told him he looked too much like him that he’d be a distraction.
The horse that stole the show was Arya’s white horse she used after leaving the Hound on her way to Braavos. The white horse was 28-years-old and featured below. They told us her name, but I forgot. Icelandic name that is hard to pronounce, naturally.

We boarded up the bus and then headed out to our next film site. This site was a scene in season 4 with the dragon Drogon seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RN1tVhQuzDw
This scene has a waterfall in the distance and the shepherd boy has his goats and sheep and along comes a young, adolescent Drogon and takes one of them home.
It was a gorgeous setting with the waterfall on the right and the open field to the left. You are on a bluff overlooking the waterfall. When you look to the right, you see the picture below, the same water the boy was throwing rocks into.

When you turn your head to the left, you see the field that Drogon took the sheep with him.

Theo had still shots of the scene the he described in detail. Naturally, all the dragon and fire pieces were CGI.
The next site was an hour away, so we stopped for a bathroom break. Theo would give us insights over the microphone in the bus the entire ride. The pic below was one of our few stops along the way. I tried an Icelandic hot dog for the first time and it was fantastic. It came highly recommended by Theo and it didn’t disappoint.

On the tour, I met a guy who had been to 3 other GOT tours in other countries where they had filmed, including Ireland, Morocco and Croatia. He said the Morocco tour was a waste of time and horrible. But, he really enjoyed the Ireland and Croatia tours. Croatia was where they filmed the King’s Landing scenes.
I also met a family from Ft Worth, Texas that were talking about all the activities they wanted to do in Iceland and one of them was snorkel in the water in-between the two tectonic plates. It’s the only place you can do that in the world. But, they had told them their 12-year-old son couldn’t go because you had to be 14 or older. Another of our group said he did it and it was a blast. The water was super cold, but you have dry suits on that make it bearable. I’ll have to plan that for next time in Iceland!
The next stop was an early Viking settlement that they also used in season 4 of GOT. This scene the Wildlings attack the village south of the wall. The young boy escapes and becomes a protegé to Jon Snow, for awhile. Here is the scene: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mmp3esRz4Wk
The scene takes place on the backside of the grassed over building below:

The folks on set created a separate entrance in the back and most all the scene is in the back of the building below:

Here was another of the buildings on the left side of the picture above:

This combined a sense of Viking history in with GOT filming, so was really cool to see. There were only a couple other tourists in the area, so it was really exclusive to the GOT tour.
As we were loading up the tour bus to leave, the bus driver informed us that the battery had died on the bus. We all looked at each other in disbelief, but were poking fun at it. He had called into dispatch but they told him to have us push the bus from behind to see if it would help get it going. So, out we all went to push the bus, thank god we were pointing downhill! We all gave a good push and got it going! Everyone cheered and got back on the bus and away we went.
The final stop on the tour had nothing to do with GOT or a film scene, but a waterfall that Theo loved. So, we had time for a quick couple pictures before we headed back home. It was a gorgeous set of two waterfalls that flow into a single pond. A pic is below:

After the waterfall, we did make one more stop on the ride back to Reykjavik. We stopped at gas station around the area that Bobby Fisher was buried. Bobby Fisher was the American Grand Master of Chess that fell into hard times and was wanted in a few countries, but Iceland granted him citizenship because he had friends there. So, he lived the rest of his final days in Iceland and is buried there. He became more famous from the great movie “Searching For Bobby Fisher.”
The gas station offered GOT memorabilia that was handmade by a local woodworker. I bought a GOT wooden wolf bookmark. I figured it was fitting since I was reading the books to pass the time until next season.
Next, it was an hour or so bus ride back to Reykjavik. The dropped us off at the main bus station and I tipped Theo 1000 krona, equivalent to $10 and thanked him for the tour. He is an investor in a business called “Nexus” that he works at on the weekends that offers fantasy board games and action figures and his Facebook page is this link if you ever want to reach him. The cover photo he has on his page is the same waterfall in the picture you see above, except in wintertime: https://www.facebook.com/swordbiter/
This marked the end of the first major day in the countryside in Iceland and it was breathtaking. We had a beautiful day and I was anxious to head out on my own the next day to really delve into it further. I would begin by heading north to Borgarnes. But first, I could explore more of the downtown Reykjavik city one last time before the 5-day trek.
Right after I was dropped back off at City Hall and bus stop 1, I came to find out that one of the other passengers was from KC as well and she was with her friend from Estonia. I figure with Icelandair’s nonstop flights, there is going to be a lot more folks from KC there, which is awesome! We said our goodbyes and each went our separate ways. I headed back towards the downtown main street for dinner.
I tried heading into the restaurant named for the movie “The Big Lebowski” but I waited for 20 minutes in the bar and no one entertained an idea of taking my order. All the patrons and staff were too busy watching a movie on the screen in the bar. So, I figured, if I was going to spend a good chunk on dinner, the least they could do was wait on me, so I left. They had a ton of burgers on the menu and served tons of different kinds of White Russians, just like in the movie. Here is the link to the restaurant: https://lebowskibar.is/
I decided I would just get something quick and easy and not as expensive, so I ventured into Subway. It is the only American chain in Iceland that I saw, and for that, I don’t know why, but they are all over the country. I saw them in the north and east. One catch though, they don’t have meatballs for my favorite meatball sandwich. So, I ordered an Italian sub, chips and a drink and it was $17 American dollars. That’s insane for fast food. But, would have been cheaper than any restaurant.
I walked in a few souvenir stores and bought a couple T-shirts and a few magnets for my fridge that I collect of places I travel to and I was on my way back past City Hall on my way to my Airbnb. My second night’s sleep wasn’t much different than the first, but it was my last night there, and I was happy.
In the next blog, I’ll begin my venture into the countryside as I begin the 5-day trek around the Ring Road! Stay tuned!
Until the next adventure…..




















































